“RICH MAN, POOR MAN – POINT LOMA: A PLACE WHERE DREAMS ARE FULFILLED – In a tiny backyard on Point Loma, an old Portuguese winemaker drained his glass of passion fruit liqueur and said: ‘I had my life here, working the tuna boats. But I don’t go back to sea. I have very little…, my garden and my wine.’ An hour later, a mile away, a retired Admiral looked down on a sea of sloops moored to the San Diego Yacht Club (where Portuguese were admitted only in recent years) and said: ‘People on Point Loma like good order. They are good, patriotic Americans.’
There once was a time, some eight decades ago (circa 1898 – ed.) when Point Loma was mostly sagebrush and chaparral. Only the sea-worshipping, hard-driving Portuguese, who lived in huts off the ankle-deep dust of Rosecrans, worked its shores, fishing for tuna with poles and saving their money to bring their brides to America. The brides arrived about the turn of the century, bursting into tears at the sight of this wilderness that seemed to promise little. But their men, undaunted, kept fishing and they amassed fleets of boats – and some…, great wealth. Traditionally, they paid their grocery bill once a year at the only greengrocer on the Point, Mr. GEORGE LEONARD’s, and they came to expect a box of candy in return for payment. When children were born, chances were their fathers were at sea, but the birth announcement was posted (with great flair!) on George Leonard’s bulletin board.
In the late 1920s, a spattering of wealthy Mission Hills expatriates joined the Portuguese. They built giant Spanish-style estates on La Playa beach, rode the trolley to work, and strove to explain to flabbergasted friends why they had moved to the boonies. From Point Loma to downtown took 35 minutes. Their children, in the style of the day, sledded face down on Flexi-Flyers, from one end of San Gorgonio St. to the other. As teenagers, they spooned (now referred to on Point Loma as ‘watching the submarine races’) on Bliss Cliff, along about where singer Frankie Lane now lives. The best private school in San Diego in those days was Madame KATHERINE TINGLEY’S Raja-Yoga, established off Catalina Blvd. as part of the mystical THEOSOPHICAL INSTITUTE in 1900. Surrounded by strange architecture never seen before in San Diego, children were taught mental arithmetic with emphasis on spare-the-rod-spoil-the-child discipline. Parties on the Point for the elite were elegant F. Scott Fitzgerald affairs held on the massive, landscaped lawns. Talk was of the plans real estate agent John P. Mills was promoting on Sunset Cliffs. Mill’s sales pitch included a Sunday drive from town in a big Cadillac, lemonade under a tent, a panoramic view of the Pacific, and easy terms. Mills saw some success too, until the proverbial carpet was pulled out from under him when the Stock Market crashed in 1929.
Gossip in 1921 focused on who would get invited to join the new Thursday Club. The Point Loma housewives who started it (after being rejected by the even more exclusive Wednesday Club) screened members carefully to insure ‘compatibility’. But the event of the decade was a (1915 – ed.) road race that lapped through La Playa and Ocean Beach. Famed racer Barney Oldfield drove a big Buick. Bales of hay lined the curbs. Average speed was an amazing (?!? – ed.) 40 m.p.h.
But Time changes everything. Point Loma is no longer a pristine wilderness. It has neon and billboards, a twirling chicken bucket, a giant donut, a bar called the ‘Boobie Trap’. Madame Tingley, her Theosophists and her great glass-domed temples on the hill are gone. So are the whalers, and the Chinese fishermen whose junks used to dot the bay off Roseville.
But some things have remained. The traditional Portuguese still eat linguiça and Portuguese beans with their eggs for breakfast. During the winemaking season, the heady aroma of fermenting grapes is so strong along the streets of the Portuguese community that the aroma permeates the lawns.
The view is still spectacular. The major pastime is still yachting. The residents remain ‘mature, culturally developed families,’ as long-time Point Loman PETER PECKHAM describes it. The social strata is upper crust; the politics conservative Republican; the security system A.D.T. Not too many years back ‘For Sale’ signs were not seen in front of Point Loma houses. As one real estate agent explained, ‘We have to be careful who we are dealing with.’ ‘After 43 years in uniform, there’s the U.S. Navy right there. I can look out and see my kind of officer make a lousy landing, poke a hole in his ship, and have to back up and start all over again.’ His name is Marshall E. Dornin, retired Admiral U.S.N., and he is tall and lanky and quick to scowl at the mention of massage parlor. At the moment, he’s sitting at a little round table in his redwood house high on the Point, gesturing out through glass to the panoramic view. Dornin is a past Chairman and now a Director of ‘Point Loma Village Beautiful‘, an organization begun in 1964 in an effort to clean up some of the billboards, neon, and commercial sex on Point Loma. P.L.V.B. has been victorious. Not only has it managed to get underground powerlines on Rosecrans and pass a billboard restriction code, but all important; it managed (with the help of the vice squad and the City Attorney) to shut down the last three massage parlors on the Point. ‘The vice squad made 15 arrests,’ says Dornin. ‘What we did was get people to sign statements responding to, ‘Do you think there is prostitution there and why?’ The District Attorney met with the owners, and basically told them they had enough evidence to padlock them for a year. They folded.’ Massage parlors, he says, just didn’t fit in with the way of life on Point Loma.
No, life on Point Loma is Portuguese fishermen who pass the time of day in their own shed down by the waterfront (where the Port District put stakes on top of the lamp posts so the pigeons and gulls couldn’t sit there).
Life here is Mr. Doc Holliday, 17 years a maintenance man for Cal Western when it was located on the grounds of the now defunct Theosophical Institute. Doc has a lifetime contract that enables him to live in an apartment at the end of the campus and take his meals at the cafeteria on what is now Point Loma College. Holliday pays $50 a month rent for one of the most splendid views on the Point.
Point Loma also has Mr. Art Jessop, of the San Diego jewelry family, who moved to the Point in 1936 and watched the dredging that turned mudflats into Shelter Island in 1949. ‘We used to row out and spear lobsters at night,’ he recalls. And Point Loma is a proposing $750,000 to resand (scientists call it ‘nourish’) the rapidly vanishing beach at La Playa. Geographically, Point Loma is blessed. Even the winds blow from the west, which means that salt spray ruins automobiles on the Ocean Beach side, but is nary a problem in Point Loma…
The U.S. Navy is all over the peninsula. At the front door, at Rosecrans & Lytton Sts. is the Naval Training Center (now known as Liberty Station – ed.). Here, pomp and ceremony every Friday afternoon mark the graduating of that week’s class of seamen. There is a Naval Undersea Center, the Naval Electronics Laboratory, a submarine group, an anti-submarine warfare training center and more, much much more…, Navy.
‘Every Point Loman loves to have the Navy on the end of the Point,’ say Karon Luce. ‘This area just couldn’t handle the traffic of a residential area. It would destroy Point Loma and make it just like Mira Mesa.’ Luce and her husband Gordon, President of San Diego Federal, live on Silvergate Avenue, just above the long, curving private Trepte Road, where ‘Committee of 100’ Ms. Bea Evenson and singer Frankie Laine (think “Mule Train” and 1959’s iconic “Rawhide” – b. Francesco Paolo LoVechio – ed.) live. When parties are given on the private drive, guests park below and are taken up the mountain by limousine. Real estate values on the Point have accelerated as fast as any area in the city. The typical three-bedroom tract-like home now sells for $90,000 (i.e. 1978 prices, now more like $427,732 – ed.). Lots on San Elijo St. that sold for $3,000 in the 1930s now have market values of $125,000 (equivalent to $2,000,000 to $8,000,000 today – ed.). Portuguese fishermen are now paying more each year in property taxes than they originally paid for the land itself. And some great contributors to San Diego’s past have lived on Point Loma. The list includes Ms. Lena Sefton Clark, who founded the Charity Ball for the Children’s Home Society; her brother Joe, President of the Museum of Natural History in Balboa Park; Mr. H. H. Timkin’s daughter Amelia, who spearheaded the building of the Fine Arts Gallery in 1925, and Mr. Earl W. Grant who left the esteemed Grant-Munger collection to the Fine Arts Gallery.
But; there’s another flavor to Point Loma… It’s Friday night and the backyard of Mrs. MARY MONIZ’ little cottage house (on Hugo St. – ed.) is filled with dark-haired, swaying and stomping teen-agers, moving in quasi-syncopation to tape recorded sounds that no doubt the neighbors are hearing too.
Soon the pint-sized Moniz takes a break from her teaching and calls over the fence for Mrs. HELEN LABRUZZI to come over. Labruzzi is in the middle of making 60 pounds of meatballs for a church dinner. But she comes over anyway, wisps of hair falling on her forehead.
Moniz and Labruzzi, with their rousing voices, are great kindred spirits and the do-gooders of the Portuguese community. Let those up the hill have the Symphony and the Fine Arts Gallery, Moniz and Labruzzi make sure that fund-raising dinners have meatballs, folkloric dancers have costumes, and everybody has plain old moral support.
Moniz has been rehearsing for years with the PORTUGUESE-AMERICAN DANCERS, who perform all over Southern California. At one point, her house got so full of costumes she had to build an extra room. Now, at least part of every day is spent teaching Portuguese dance, for free.
Labruzzi has lived on Point Loma for 54 years (i.e. arriving here circa 1924 – ed.). In Portuguese fashion; she first took care of her ailing mother, then her father, then a blind uncle. Now, for the first time in 52 years she and her husband (Dominic – ed.) live without other family members. ‘It’s tough,’ she says of the tuna fishing life. ‘You have to make the judgments all the time. There’s never any waiting for your husband to come home from fishing and take care of it. It may be three months before you see him.’
Some of the Portuguese, especially those from the MADEIRA Islands, still marry young. Often young men go to sea, like their fathers did, at age 17 or 18. ‘Who else at that age can make $15,000 to $18,000 a year?’ (equivalent to $71,289 or $85,546 today – ed.) explains Ms. MARY GIGLITTO, President of CABRILLO FESTIVAL INC. The money is a major draw; an experienced crewman on a tunaboat can expect to bring home $50,000 to $60,000 (equivalent to $261,392 today – ed.) a year.
But slowly education is becoming more important. Point Loma’s schools now have bilingual programs in Portuguese, and more youths are staving off the call of the sea until they finish High School.
And slowly…, the clannishness of the Portuguese is fading. ‘It is definitely a closer community,’ explains Rev. PATRICK FOX, an Irishman of thick brogue who resides over the predominantly Portuguese parish of ST. AGNES CATHOLIC CHURCH. ‘In some ways that is good. In their quiet way, they can support each other. On the other hand, they get SO close knit that they find it difficult to get along with other parts of the community. I have insisted that they reach out to other communities. We do this while trying to encourage them to retain the traditions of their past.’ The traditions include the FESTA do ESPIRITO SANTO, or Celebration of the Holy Spirit, to be held this year on May 14th. The Procession, with gaily colored costumes and singing and feasting, begins and ends at the tiny chapel (aka. Império Capela – ed.) on Addison St. (now Avenida de Portugal – ed.), now decorated with Christmas lights.
And every September there is the CABRILLO FESTIVAL, held in honor of Portuguese-born (nowadays that nativity is in dispute via Dr. Wendy Kramer – ed.) JUAN RODRIGUEZ CABRILLO, who discovered San Diego at Ballast Point in 1542 and claimed it for Queen Isabella of Spain.
Above the landing spot of Ballast Point, at the tip of Point Loma, through the gates of the Navy Electronics Laboratory, is the CABRILLO NATIONAL MONUMENT. It has become the most visited national monument in the country, surpassing the attendance at the Statue of Liberty. Here, too, is the old POINT LOMA LIGHTHOUSE, completed in 1854 (but not used since 1891 because ship captains complained that the fog often obscured its beam). And, here also is the statue of our JUAN CABRILLO – 14’ high and 14,000 lbs., which almost settled in San Francisco.
In 1935, the story goes, the Portuguese government authorized a Portuguese sculptor, Mr. ALVARO De BREE, to begin work on a statue of Cabrillo to be offered as a gift to California for the 1940 San Francisco Exposition. The statue, however, was never exhibited and, in fact, disappeared. About this time, our Mr. LAWRENCE OLIVER, one of the early Portuguese to settle on Point Loma, decided that *SAN DIEGO* (because of its Portuguese influence) should have the statue. He went to San Francisco and launched a search for it, but had no luck. Finally, he visited a friend and during the conversation, talk turned to the statue. The friend, it turned out, was keeping the statue in her garage, in the original crate in which it was shipped! Without hesitation, Oliver launched a ‘kidnapping’, calling Col. Ed Fletcher (then State Senator), who arranged for a truck with a crane and a rail car to move the statue here to San Diego. Mr. Oliver, who died last December, recalls the snatching in his autobiography, ‘LOOKING BACKWARD’ as:
‘On the following Monday, there was quite a turmoil around the Bay Area, in San Francisco and Oakland, when news of the statue-snatching got around. The Committee (for the San Francisco Exposition) went to Sacramento with its attorneys to try to get the governor to order the statue returned to SAN FRANCISCO. He was in a tight spot because he had promised it to OAKLAND. Someone else had promised it to SACRAMENTO, and FRESNO thought that they should have it too. ‘The governor was upset and in a dilemma. I understand that in public he accused Sen. Fletcher of stealing the statue, and threatened to invoke the law…, but he never did anything.’ ‘For many years, the story behind the statue was kept secret because of the hard feelings,’ continues Oliver, ‘But that’s all over now. The statue is where it belongs.’
(*Source: San Diego UNION & Daily Bee newspaper – Sunday,April30, 1978 – Pgs. B1 & B3)
*Editorial Note: Info regarding Cabrillo’s nativity, see: https://tpgonlinedaily.com/who-was-cabrillo/